Puppy Care

Puppy Care Before and After You Receive Your Pup:

AT OUR HOMES, BIRTH UNTIL PUPPY LEAVES:

NEWBORN: Puppies are born with eyes and ears closed. They have a long tail and dew claws.

3 DAYS OLD: All pups start sensory stimulation training at this time. Dew claws are removed and the tail is docked on Poodles and some Poo mixes. If you want the tail left long on your puppy you will have to notify me before the puppy is 3 days old because that is when I get them docked.

2-3 WEEKS: Eyes and ears open at this time. Their eyes are blue at this age… Daily sensory stimulation is still happening. Puppies are wormed.

4 WEEKS: We introduce soft food into their diets. At this time we also start them on Nu-Vet Vitamins-powder form sprinkled on food. They are getting more coordinated and eyes start to darken in color. Puppies are wormed.

5 WEEKS: Between 5-7weeks old pups start using the potty pad to potty on. Their personalities are starting to show more.

6 WEEKS: This is when we completely wean the puppies between 6-7 weeks of age unless momma wants to feed them longer. They can get very stressed at this time so need more human bonding time. At this age Payment in full is due on your puppy if puppy is to be shipped. Puppies are wormed. As soon as puppy is weaned we start introducing him/her to the puppy apartment crate. We set up exercise pens to with pee pads and allow puppies to use both methods. Many are fully trained to potty pads before they even leave us.

8 WEEKS: We start to get puppy all ready to leave and if puppy is going to ship to you we take puppy to the vet for a health certificate needed to ship. The first of 3 puppy shots is given, a five way puppy vaccine we give between 6 to 8 weeks of age, then every 3 to 4 weeks, and he/she is wormed again. Puppies can be transferred at this time if they are eating well and big enough.

10 WEEKS: General rule of thumb is you can weigh toy breed pups at 10 weeks of age and double that then add half a pound to guess adult weight. Pups are wormed again.

12 WEEKS: General rule of thumb on toy breeds is at 12 weeks you can double weight of puppy to get a better guess on adult weight. Pups are wormed again.

*16 WEEKS: Puppies are due for their last shot if not yet given. Don’t forget to start a heart worm preventative at this time. At 4 to 6 mths give a rabies vaccine. In medium size breeds, general rule of thumb is 16 weeks double size to guess adult size.

BEFORE PUPPY COMES HOME WITH YOU:
So your puppy will be coming soon and you want to know what should be done on your end to make for an easy puppy safe transition. Here is a list of things to do when you know your puppy will be coming home with you soon.

1. Make sure it is OK for you to have a pet in the home you live in if you are renting. This should be done before you even inquire about a puppy.
2. Potty Training: Look below on different methods of potty training and have it set up before your puppy’s arrival. I recommend the PUPPY APARTMENT for tinier puppies, but any method using a pee pad is good, which your puppy will be accustomed to using before you receive him/her.
3. Vitamins are good for your growing puppy. I recommend ordering them to have on hand when you receive your puppy. Order the powder form to sprinkle on the food if your puppy is 3 lbs or less. If over 3lbs get the wafers and give one a day. Look for GREEN banner link on this web page for link to Nuvet website to order.
4. Make a Vet appointment for your puppy before you are scheduled to receive him/her. This is mandatory to start your health guarantee and it is a good idea to get acquainted with your puppy’s health care staff. Pup must see vet within 3 days of transfer minus weekends and holidays. Earlier the better same day or next day is even better.
5. Have small breed puppy food on hand before you get your puppy. Life’s Abundance is a good brand to feed your puppy to keep him his healthiest. If calling in your order Breeder Code for Life’s Abundance is: 20060754 … Look on this web page for link to Life’s Abundance website to order food. Also have Royal Canin puppy moose on hand, and a sugar supplement such as Nutrical or Supplical. Read over last page of health guarantee for puppy care instructions and how to feed. Also order the NUVET supplements in powder form for your small breed puppy or tabs if medium to large breed. Nuvet Breeder Order Code if Calling in an order: 84779
6. Get the spot in your home that you are going to keep the puppy in ready. If using one, make sure you have your Puppy exercise pen set up before your puppy comes home in the spot you want it to be in. Do not let your puppy run through your house unsupervised. It will use the restroom, or get hurt. Make sure you have the small area or crate set up with food dishes, Potty area. Food should be available 24/7 for at least the first few weeks, until your puppy is used to his new home and owners. Then you can go to 3 feedings a day. When going to airport to pick up your puppy don’t forget to bring some wet ones or paper towels just in case your puppy has pottied in his/her crate and some of the Nutrical or Supplical type of sugar supplement to give your pup a sugar boost for the ride home.

DON’T ALLOW YOUR PUP TO POTTY OR EVEN WALK ON THE GROUND AT THE AIRPORT OR ANYWHERE ELSE OTHER DOGS HAVE GONE POTTY UNTIL ALL SHOTS ARE COMPLETE!

SHOPPING FOR YOUR
PUPPY IS LOTS OF FUN!

Shopping list for your puppy.

• Life’s Abundance small breed Dry puppy food-link to order is on this page, or whatever dry food we advise.
• Soft canned Royal Canin Puppy Moose from pet store and or A/D from vet.
• NUVET Supplement, link to order is on this page.
• Sugar Supplement such as Nutrical you can get from vet or pet store.
• Puppy Apartment-Recommended, Bed that fits in it, and puppy pee pads, can all be ordered at “Puppy Apartment” link below or same link on left side bar of this page, use coupon code KJ64747 for 5% off.
• An exercise pen if you plan on using one.
• Crate PUPPY SIZE if crate training. “If flown to you”, pup will come with a plastic crate you can keep. Tinier pups that need food 24/7 can not be crate trained until older.
• Food and water bowl
• Puppy safe toys, No rawhide or greenies
• Leash and collar or harness
• Grooming brush and comb
• Tearless shampoo and conditioner

List extended for extra tiny puppies:

• 12 ml or cc syringes in case syringe feeding is needed.
• Heating pad, puppy safe, with STAY ON feature.
• Small food scale to weigh pup every couple days.
• Small oral thermometer to check temp if needed.
• and don’t forget the sugar supplement such as Nutrical, should be on hand at all times.

They have some real cute doggy supplies at: GWLittle.com

SYRINGE FEEDING A PUPPY, YOU TUBE VIDEO, MAKE SURE PUPPY IS ALERT BEFORE DOING THIS. CALL BREEDER IF UNSURE, If puppy is hypoglycemic you would instead warm puppy with a blow dryer and give a sugar supplement until puppy is alert and can swallow, call breeder if concerned:

We care dearly for each of our puppies and feel micro chipping is important, so we have decided to microchip each of our puppies free of charge. Not every puppy is chipped but most are. Ask if it is important to you. You will just need to go online to register the chip number in your name and contact info after you receive your puppy from us.

AFTER YOU HAVE PUPPY HOME.:

YAY!!! Now that you have your baby home all the fun starts!!!Don’t forget your vet visit, and remember to bring your puppy’s health certificate, and shot record with you to the vet. Please contact me if you can’t find the shot record when you receive your puppy. Most puppies are microchipped. Check front of the shot record to see if your puppy is chipped. If it is, have your vet scan to double check the number and then go online to microchipregistrationcenter.com to register it with your contact info. If your pup comes with a puppy registry paper such as for AKC, you should go ahead and register your puppy now so you don’t forget. Most registries have an additional fee if you wait until your puppy is over a year old, so it is best to register them immediately so you do not forget. Remember to keep your new puppy away from other dogs and even the dog park until it has fully finished the vaccine regiment and is a good size to fend off any illnesses if he contracts one from another dog. Make sure to start your puppy on a heart-worm preventive. Please remember to keep food and water available to your puppy 24/7 for at least a few weeks and then you can go to 3 times a day if pup isn’t to tiny.… I know it is tempting but please do not feed your dog table scraps. Remember to look over the list of poisonous plants and the list for poisonous foods as well. Your new puppy will be very excited to be in a new place so make sure you allow them time to rest and nap between playing sessions. Don’t forget to give your puppy his/her NuVet Vitamins daily. Keep him/her in an enclosed area with access to a potty area. I’m sure you are still being bombarded by puppy kisses so I will let you go to play with your new baby. Call us If you have any questions CALL OR TEXT 9am to 9pm CST or 24 hours if an emergency.

Check List For First Vet Visit:

1. Take pup to vet within 3 business days minus weekends and holidays. Have fecal checked for all types of parasites such as giardia, worms, coccidiosis, etc… If any found at that first vet visit we will send you a $30 check to help pay for wormer as stated in our HEALTH GUARANTEE so best to have it checked at first vet visit. Keep in mind additional wormings are needed for young puppies which will continually pick up parasites everywhere they go because of their tender age. PLEASE READ THE PARASITE PAGE OF OUR WEBSITE UNDER BREED INFORMATION TAB.
2. If pup comes to you with meds then take them to the vet visit so your vet can see what pup is taking. Also take your shot record so vet can see what shots and wormings pup has had up to that date. Your vet will go over when it is time for the next puppy shot. You need to wait 2 weeks after you receive your puppy before any vaccines are given. Puppy is already stressed with a move so no need to stress his system further with vaccines that can wait a few weeks. When you do give a vaccine you should watch that pup is eating enough and if not syringe feed your puppy for a few days.
3. Talk to your vet about starting pup on a heartworm and intestinal parasite monthly wormer that your pet should take for the rest of it’s life.
4. No Leptospirosis vaccine should be given until puppy is at least 6 months old. It can have harsh side effects and can even kill a more fragile pup. Our health guarantee does not cover side effects from vaccines so be careful of what you decide to give your puppy.
5. If vet finds anything wrong with the puppy you should call me asap. While still at vet office and before any meds or procedures are given. Some are not needed or there might be a cheaper fix for the problem.  We can help you save money with our years of experience.
6. If your puppy is very tiny you should explain to the vet you will be syringe feeding the puppy, and go over the Teacup Care form part of the health guarantee with your vet. Watch food intake on any size pup and syringe feed even a bigger pup if they are not eating enough.
7. Please look on front of your pup’s shot record to see if your puppy is micro-chipped. If your puppy is micro-chipped you need to register the chip at: www.microchipregistrationcenter.com with your contact info. Chip is blank until you do so.

Potty Training

Crates – And Other Potty Methods:

Why use Crates?

Dogs are den animals and feel secure in small enclosed spaces. By nature they will avoid excreting waste in the place where they den and prefer it to be as clean as possible. Dog crates make excellent dens when sized properly. The idea that placing a dog in a crate is cruel is a common misconception. Crates should be used throughout a dog’s life and the sooner you introduce your dog to their own crate the better off you both will be. A dog’s instinct is to please their owner and most problem behaviors occur while the owner is away. If the dog is in a crate while you are away problem behaviors are avoided and they usually spend most of this time sleeping. Introducing your pet to a crate is one of the best steps you can make toward a properly balanced dog. Crate-trained dogs also travel easier with their dens since they feel secure. This also helps when visiting the veterinarian or groomer who uses crates.

Getting puppy used to his/her crate: You should expect your puppy to cry if you just stick him in a cage. A puppy should be encouraged to go into the crate with food or treats in short sessions so that the puppy does not feel trapped and scream for hours on end. Your puppy should also get plenty of exercise before being put in his crate. Always put toys and treats in the crate and turn on a TV for him to watch or a radio to listen to. Have the crate in a living room or another room where your pup will be a part of the family.

Now many people do just stick their puppy in a cage after exercise and potting and allow it to cry until it learns to accept the crate and that does work fine for many dogs, but not all. If you do decide to go that way you should know that you may have to put the crying puppy in a place you can’t here it at night while you try to sleep. Some dogs that have more a “people attachment” that like to be your little shadow will need extra time and effort on the owners part in introducing them to their crate. I highly recommend training using the clicker method and please read the following page before going further, then come back to our site to finish:

http://www.clickersolutions.com/articles/2001/crate.htm

Housebreaking
Crate training is the easiest method to housebreak your dog. When returning home, remove your dog from the crate and immediately take them to your chosen spot and encourage them to “go potty,” or whatever command you feel comfortable with. Allow them no more than 3 to 5 minutes to potty, not play. If unsuccessful, start the routine over with more crate time. Keep in mind the age of your puppy and how long they may be able to hold their bladder. Dogs vary, but as a rule a 3-month old puppy should be able to last through the night. Also, it’s never too late to start using a crate; older dogs may require more time to acclimate. It is also important not to show excitement when removing them from the crate, rather use a soft subtle tone or say nothing until at the potty spot. Excitement can cause many small dogs to experience submissive urination, a behavior that can be difficult to break. Likewise, while placing your dog in the crate before you leave, it’s best to remain calm. Please give your puppy enough exercise or you will have issues with the puppy being happy in it’s crate.

Proper Sizing
The crate should be just big enough for the dog to walk in, turn around, and lay down. It is okay to purchase the size crate that will suit the dog’s needs when fully grown. Using a divider to control the amount of crate available is a good idea while your puppy is growing. Don’t use a crate that is too big or it will defeat the natural “den” instinct. Your pet may use one end of the crate to go potty instead of exercising bladder control.

Where Should the Crate be Located?

Position the crate in an area that is easy to supervise, not in an isolated area. At night your bedroom is an ideal place so the dog can feel secure near their owner. Avoid drafts or direct heat, and experiment with crate drapes on the top and/or sides for added security. Multiple crates throughout the home makes training much easier. Be sure to never leave a puppy unattended. If you can’t watch them — crate them.

A crate should never be overused or used as a form of punishment. Crates must always be regarded as a safe and special retreat for your dog. Is your dog crate trained?
To purchase these products visit GWLittle.com or call 1-866-GWLittle (495-4885).

Puppy Apartment:
When starting with a puppy apartment you should have it closed with your puppy inside until puppy is used to your home. Then you can open the door on the bed side a little at a time allowing the puppy to acclimate that his “Den” side getting bigger. Eventually he will have full run of your house. I put a tiny food bowl and water bottle on the bed “den” side or right up again the bed side so pup always has food available. You can use a water bottle if your pup spills the water bowl a lot.

If you decide to go with an exercise pen and puppy apartment: Below is a photo sent from a past buyer, and shows a good setup for any age or size of dog. You can use a puppy exercise pen to widen the area around the puppy apartment to teach pup not to potty anywhere but inside the puppy apartment. You put a bed and a potty area in it for your puppy. Then keep making it bigger using card board boxes as seen in pic, until the puppy has full run of the room and then your house. If puppy/dog has an accident you start over again with a tiny area such as just the puppy apartment again. I highly recommend the puppy apartment method since your pup will always have its own bathroom spot and you won’t accidently step on a used pee pad in the middle of the night! If you are using a doggy door to train your pup to potty only outside you can still use this inside exercise pen area the same to keep making the puppy’s den area inside home bigger. And again keep making the inside area bigger until the pup has full run of your house. If using a doggy door, you would just not have an inside potty area. To get your pup to use a doggy door you may need to prop it open half way until your pup feels comfortable pushing the door open. You can entice the pup to learn to push the door open with praise and treats. Some puppies are just too small to go outside to potty without you right there beside them, so many will always need an indoor method like the puppy apartment. PUPPY APARTMENT SIZE: Puppy charting under 10 lbs grown get a small, if charting 10 and over, then get a medium size. If you use the coupon code: KJ64747 will get a 5% discount on one. And anyone can use this coupon code, so friends and family as well can order one if they like yours and use this coupon code.

ALL our Poodle and PooMix puppies are started using this potty training method.
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND continuing this training process with puppies purchased from me.

As an added bonus, I have arranged that you will get a 5% discount on your purchase from the supplier of the PUPPY APARTMENT. Use coupon code : KJ64747. CLICK HERE TO PURCHASE YOUR PUPPY APARTMENT!!

Dos and Don’ts

• No matter what way you choose to train your puppy, be sure to always praise the pup and give him/her a treat when the job is well done. Using a stern, lower voice is enough scolding to a small breed dog. Please do not harm your puppy in any way when getting frustrated in training. Remember, they are only going to learn if you are consistent in teaching them. So many people give up or do not try hard enough to properly train a dog. A poodle is one of the most intelligent breeds out there and they are not difficult to train if the trainer is consistent.
• Puppies sleep a lot so make sure you have an area designated just for puppy. A blanket, towel or doggy bed in the corner of a room will work just fine. If you are crate training your puppy, the crate is a safe place for the puppy to nap. Once the crate training is finished, you can always remove the door from the crate and that will remain the puppy’s safe spot to rest. Dogs like small confined spaces like this. Make sure your crate is not too big (just enough room for them to lay down and turn around). Remember to have food and water available 24/7 for extra tiny puppies and make sure they are eating enough.
• Children should be supervised when playing with puppies. If a puppy is mistreated, it could change that puppy’s personality for the rest of his or her life! Make sure that the puppy is never left unattended with children you are unsure about. Some children are very respectful of animals and as we all know, some are never taught to be respectful.
• Never leave a puppy unattended on furniture. A tiny puppy can think he is very brave at times and may try to jump. To avoid any broken bones or worse, be sure to make a house rule of never leaving your puppy on the sofa or bed. Stairs are something that a poodle can learn to go up and down, as they get older. Even a teacup can run up and down stairs if they put their mind to it. I have some very small teacups that run up and down the stairs safely and quickly. It is all in what you expose them to and what they feel safe doing.
• As most of us know, Toy Poodles and small poomixes are very popular dogs. Never leave your puppy unattended to outdoors. I have actually had a customer report that their dog was stolen from their yard! Don’t take any chances; keep a watchful eye on your poodle no matter what his/her age is. Also be careful of large birds. Eagles, Hawks and Owls are large enough to swoop down and grab a puppy. That is a horrible thought but it has happened!
• Lastly, do not take your puppy anywhere in the public that an ill animal could have been until they are fully vaccinated. This usually means at least 16 weeks of age. Once they have all of their vaccinations in them, they are usually immune to the diseases. Public parks, pet stores that allow you to bring your pets in and vet clinics are the main places to be careful of. Of course you have to take your puppy to the vet clinic for vaccinations. However, do not put him/her down on the floor. Make sure the office is clean and the tables are cleaned with a disinfectant that tills viruses. You can never be too safe!

Become a Positive Leader for Your Dog

The following information is excerpted from a book we highly recommend:
Natural Health for Dogs and Cats
By Dr. Richard H. Pitcairn
Rodale Press, Inc., Emmaus, Pennsylvania
Note: Over 200,000 copies sold

So how do you become the good leader your dog needs? Wolf packs succeed best when their members are happy, healthy, and in relative harmony with each other. If they were constantly squabbling over their rank, they’d be at a disadvantage for rounding up food. So, to maintain social stability, wolves use ongoing nonviolent signals to remind each other of their standing in the pack.

The need to train your dog provides a perfect context to mimic this repeated posturing and to make your leadership clear to your dog again and again. The idea is to convey to your dog that he gets what he wants in life when he listens to you first. You make this work by applying it dozens of times daily, in little ways.

First, make it fun for your dog to watch you for signals. Whenever he sustains eye contact with you, constantly reinforce him with treats, affection, and whatever he loves to do (playing ball, going for a walk, and so on). Associate it with a command like, “Rover, watch!” Make it fun, and soon the command itself will be enough to get your pet’s attention. Once you can get his attention in this way, you’re ready to proceed to other lessons.

Next, show the dog in lots of little ways that he must look to you first to get what he wants. If your pet wants to go outdoors, you tell him to wait. You walk out first. Then he gets to go out. If the dog wants to eat, first tell him to sit. When he sits, you feed him. If your dog wants affection, first tell him to lie down and have him stay for 30 seconds. Then you release him with a code word like “okay” and play together. Once the routine gets going, and your pet knows a few simple commands and learns that getting it right earns him lots of praise plus the thing he wants, he’ll love it.

Every time you tell your dog what to do and he listens, it gently reinforces the idea that you’re in charge, so he doesn’t need to be concerned. It constantly signals to the dog that you’re the leader, and it provides an ongoing supply of the attention he loves. Some dogs will accept this at once, others will put up a struggle about who’s top dog. But consistent, daily, enjoyable reminders of your roles will lead to a more relaxed and confident pet. Make praise and reward the cornerstone of your relationship. Simply by applying the central command to “Watch,” you will soon be past the struggling stage in teaching your dog the basics. Learning itself will become an enjoyable game for him. Your pet will eagerly try to figure out what you want so he can do it!

Please look under BREED INFORMATION TAB and then TRAINING, GETTING PUPPY OFF RIGHT, for more training tips you should read.

Poisonous household items:

Make sure all poisonous household items are securely stored out of the puppy’s reach. Place all household cleaners, insecticides, fertilizers, mothballs, antifreeze, insect poisons, rat poisons and other items in cabinets or on high shelves. Remember, as your new puppy grows, he will be able to explore higher places and be tempted to jump up on shelves. Check your plants. Many plants in and around your house can be harmful to your pup. Did you know that the pits of apricots and peaches, as well as spinach and tomato vines, can make your puppy sick and, in large dosages, can even be fatal? For a complete list of plants that are dangerous to dogs, consult your veterinarian. Take a Puppy’s-Eye View. Get down on all fours and look around. Are there any dangling electric cords, loose nails, plastic bags or other tempting objects that will be in puppy’s reach? If there are, be sure to put them away immediately. Keep your toilet lid down. Puppies are often tempted to play in toilet bowl water. This can be a hard habit to break and toilet cleanser may be harmful if swallowed. Some Additional Tips: Never leave your puppy unsupervised inside or outside, and keep him off balconies, upper porches and high decks where he can slip through openings and fall. Keep your puppy in a confined area only allowing him to run through the house on short supervised play sessions, after he has pottied in his potty spot. Unplug, remove or cover any electrical cords in your puppy’s confinement area. It is also a good idea to cover electrical outlets, when they are not in use. Keep buttons, string, sewing needles, pins and other sharp objects out of your puppy’s reach. Tying ribbons around your puppy’s neck could choke him if the ribbon gets caught on a fence or other object. A good rule to follow is that anything that is not safe for small children is not safe for pets.

More Things That Your Dog Can’t Eat!!!

* Cooked bones can splinter and tear a dog’s internal organs.

* Ham and bacon contain too much fat and too much salt, and can cause pancreatitis. Also, large breeds of dogs that eat salty food may drink too much water and develop a life-threatening condition called bloat. This is where the stomach fills up with gas and within several hours may twist, causing death.

* Raw liver or too much cooked liver (three servings a week) can lead to vitamin A toxicity. This can cause deformed bones, excessive bone growth on the elbows and spine, weight loss, and anorexia. If feeding a raw diet a dog needs 5% liver in it’s diet but any more than that can cause problems.

* Avocados (fruit, pip, and plant) are toxic to dogs. They can cause difficulty breathing; fluid accumulation in the chest, abdomen and heart; or pancreatic.

* Wild mushrooms can cause abdominal pain, drooling, liver damage, kidney damage, vomiting, diarrhea, convulsions, coma, or death.

* Onions destroy red blood cells and can cause anemia, weakness, and breathing difficulty. Even small amounts can cause cumulative damage over time. This includes onions or chives – raw, powdered, dehydrated, or cooked.

* Large amounts of garlic cause the same problems as onions.

* Dogs can’t digest most vegetables (carrots, green beans, lettuce, potatoes or yams) whole or in large pieces. Potato peels and green potatoes are dangerous. You can lightly steam the vegis which can help digestion.

* Tomatoes can cause tremors and heart arrhythmias. Tomato plants and the most toxic, but tomatoes themselves are also unsafe. (All parts of the plant except the tomato itself are also poisonous to humans.)

* Grapes and raisins can cause kidney failure in dogs. As little as a single serving of raisins can kill him. If the dog doesn’t eat enough at one time to be fatal, he can be severely damaged by eating just a few grapes or raisins regularly.

* Caffeine (from coffee, coffee grounds, tea, or tea bags) stimulates the central nervous and cardiac systems, and can cause vomiting, restlessness, heart palpitations, and even death within hours.

* Raw egg whites contain a protein called avidin, which can deplete your dog of biotin, one of the B vitamins. Biotin is essential to your dog’s growth and coat health. The lack of it can cause hair loss, weakness, growth retardation, or skeleton deformity. Raw egg yolks contain enough biotin to prevent the deficiency, so this is not a problem with raw whole eggs. Raw egg yolks could contain salmonella, so you should get your eggs from a reliable source or cook the eggs.

* Nutmeg can cause tremors, seizures and death.

* Chocolate can cause seizures, coma and death. Baker’s chocolate is the most dangerous. The darker the chocolate, the more dangerous it is. But any chocolate, in large enough amounts, can kill a dog. An ounce of chocolate can poison a 30-pound dog, and many dogs will happily consume more than this. The symptoms may not show up for several hours (and so might make you think all is well), with death following within twenty-four hours. A dog can consume milk chocolate and appear to be fine because it is not as concentrated, but it is still dangerous.

* Dairy products are high in fat, which can cause pancreatitis, gas and diarrhea. A small amount of non-fat, plain yogurt is usually safe.

* Diet products containing the sweetener Xylitol can cause a sudden drop in blood sugar, resulting in depression, loss of coordination and seizures. Unless treatment is given quickly, the dog could die.

* Macadamia nuts can cause weakness, muscle tremor and paralysis. These symptoms are usually temporary.

* Walnuts are poisonous to dogs.

* Apple seeds, cherry pits, peach pits, pear pits, plum pits, peaches and apricot pits contain cyanide, which is poisonous.

* Grains should not be given in large amounts or make up a large part of a dog’s diet, but rice is generally safe in small amounts.

* Pennies made from the 1980s to today contain zinc, which can cause kidney failure and damage to red blood cells. A dog that consumes even one penny can become quite sick, or even die, if the penny is not removed. · * Too much fat or fried foods can cause pancreatitis.

Vet Appointment

Your puppy will be up to date on vaccinations and wormed. Your vet will continue a vaccination schedule, which you must follow and keep up with. Puppies get a series of vaccinations just like children go through immunizations. It is typically one booster shot per month until they are about 16 weeks of age. Do not give pup a leptospirosis vaccine until older. It can be fatal in very small puppies. Please take your puppy to vet within 72 hrs of receiving him/her. Sooner the better. If vet finds anything wrong with pup you need to call us asap while still at vet office to discuss any procedures and or meds. All pups are born with round worms so we worm them often. They should not have any worms by the time they go home but we ask you to take a fresh stool sample to your vet to have it checked for protozoa’s and parasites just in case. If any found we will send a $30 check to help pay for wormer so best to have it done at this first visit. Your vet will go over routine preventives for ticks, fleas, and heartworms. Preventives and meds can be extra hard for teacup sized puppies and they can stop eating or have a bad reaction to any med or vaccine so be very careful what you give your puppy and dosage and always watch for any reactions up to 72 hrs later. You may need to syringe feed a tiny puppy after a vaccine or medicine if pup is not eating enough.

Coccidiosis (aka Coccidia)

We also want all of our customers to be well aware of the signs of stress in a puppy. Lots of puppies can stress out from the move. Think about it, new sounds, new smells, new voices, new faces and absolutely everything is different. This can cause a little puppy to become very scared. Even though you shower your puppy with attention and love, he or she can still become stressed from the changes. The first sign of stress is a loose stool. First it can get loose, then mucousy or even a tint of pink may appear in it (blood). Not to worry, it is very curable! This is what is diagnosed as Coccidiosis (aka Coccidia). I have done lots of research on this and the best way I can describe it is as follows. Coccidia is a protozoa that is dormant in the intestines. It is commonly referred to as a parasite but it is indeed a protozoa. Not that it matters, they are treated pretty much the same. When a puppy gets upset, this protozoa can become active and irritate the intestinal lining which thus causes the loose stool, mucous and blood. If ignored, it can be very serious and fatal. If you know what to watch for, you can catch it and treat it right away.

Most vets prescribe an oral antibiotic called Ponazuril or Albon. It is remarkable how quickly it takes affect. Within 24 hours usually you will see a big change. Now remember this is if you are keeping watch on your puppy and looking for signs. If ignored, a puppy will get diarrhea and it only goes down hill from there. Worse case would be not only the diarrhea but also vomiting and eventually becoming lethargic and dehydrated. The smaller the puppy, the quicker you can lose them. Although this may be very scary to you, we have never lost a puppy to coccidia. We have only seen it show up in pups at two times. The first time is when they are being weaned from the mom if it happens too quickly and the other is when they move to their new home. I have read that it can come on in a matter of only seven hours. We have treated your puppy with a preventative dose of Albon which guards against Coccidia for 7 days. This prevents growth of the protozoa during the stressful transition to their new home.

Hypoglycemia

If you are in the market for a Teacup or Tiny puppy, you may have read already about the risks of hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) in the smaller puppies. First of all there has to be a reason for a puppy’s blood sugar level to drop. A happy, healthy puppy is not going to just get low blood sugar for no reason! It can be brought on by poor diet, stress or an illness. “Stress” is a huge factor. First and far most important, they must be eating well. If a puppy refuses to eat because they are still adjusting, we recommend feeding them pretty much whatever they will eat! I have found that puppies will eat their dry kibble much easier if there is something moist mixed in with it. Try crushing the kibble and or adding cottage cheese or yogurt, some canned puppy food or baby food chicken out of the jar along with some corn syrup. This is much more enticing than just a bowl of dry puppy food. You can even add this syrup to you puppy’s drinking water as a constant source of sugar. You can even put a little warm water or pedialite over their food. Some people will boil chicken for a puppy or brown some ground beef and add rice to it. This is great for a puppy and they love it! There are many different things you can make up for a puppy but these are what I know have worked in the past. We recommend keeping canned Royal Canin Puppy Moose on hand or A/D canned food so you can offer it to puppy to eat as well as syringe feed it if needed.

Typically a puppy is scared when they get home, not for long but they may not want to eat on the first evening. Don’t be alarmed. This is very common and by the next day they eat like they are starving and everything is back to normal. If your puppy is pretty small, we send some Nutrical type of Sugar Supplement home with the pup. Make sure you already have it if your pup is shipped, since airline wont let us send this on crate. This is a vitamin supplement that the main ingredient in it is corn syrup. This is what saves a lot of puppies that stand a chance of getting hypoglycemic. It can be given every two hours if needed but typically not but maybe 4 times a day. When the puppy is eating well and into his/her routine, Nutrical can be given once or twice a day as a vitamin supplement. Some people have used corn syrup when there is nothing else available and their puppy is very weak (becoming hypoglycemic). If your puppy suddenly acts like they are so tired they cannot lift their head, or falls over when walking like he is drunk, this is a sure sign of hypoglycemia. If ignored, the puppy will become almost lifeless, have seizures and lose conscience. This would be near death and nothing to be ignored. A puppy can die very quickly if not treated. The best thing to do is get some corn syrup down them quickly (pancake syrup …something very sweet) and call me so I can tell you what to do to save your puppy. After giving them the sugar, they should respond within 30 minutes. They can almost return to normal but you need to find out what the cause is. I tell everyone to keep a canned food on hand that is soft and syringable, just in case you have to syringe feed your puppy. Royal Canin Puppy Moose or A/D canned food. Also a 12 ml or cc syringe. Also a sugar supplement such as Nutrical or Supplical. If your pup has low blood sugar and is acting drunk, falling over, unsteady, then you can give the sugar supplement first then warm puppy up with a blow dryer asap. The temp drops very quickly when a pup has hypoglycemia and the body temp needs to be between 101 to 102.5. If lower than that then you must warm puppy up quickly with a blow dryer, making sure not to burn or over heat the puppy. You can then keep him warm with a puppy safe heating pad set on very low. Keep checking temp every 30 minutes. Some pups don’t ever get cold but just bounce right back when given the sugar supplement but either way you want to call me immediately so I can tell you what to do to save your puppy and then call your vet to get puppy seen by him asap. Keep On Hand: A oral thermometer, heating pad, and a small food scale to weigh your pup every couple days if puppy is very tiny.

Some extremely tiny teacups need to be watched constantly because they have to eat often and get lots of TLC or they can stress and die. A very small dog is not a good idea to own if you and your family are gone a lot and have busy schedules. A teacup needs a human around and should not be left alone for more than a few hours at a time. A larger teacup is not as fragile but they do still require lots of TLC. If you like the little dogs but cannot afford the big price, check out maybe a Tiny Toy or Toy size. They are still lovely little lap dogs that can travel well and be great companions.

A Little Yogurt Fights Off Intestinal Parasites

One of the best things you can do for your puppies health is to add a teaspoon of yogurt to their raw food diet mix. We strongly suggest that you add a little bit of all natural organic yogurt daily. Your dog will love it, and the “live culture” present in yogurt will work wonders in your dogs intestinal tract. The intestinal tract is home of the always present coccidia parasites and organic yogurt works wonders in fighting of coccidea growth. It doesn’t cost much, and the Horizon Organic Yogurt pictured here is available at Walmart grocery stores – but any organic yogurt will suffice.

Little Dog Car Safety – Why You Need a “Look-out” Car Seat!

Scroll down to read this important car safety article.

You know they want to go along – but keep them SAFE!
According to the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration and the Animal Protection Institute, it is very difficult to know exactly what happens to a dog in a vehicle crash since the testing tools available in the industry are very limited. However it seems obvious that a dog contained in a harness reduces the chance of being injured by hitting other objects or occupants in the vehicle. It should also protect a dog from injuries associated with sudden stops and starts. Traveling pets face the same dangers we do, and they also pose a risk to passengers and other motorists. Author Stephen King was injured when a pick-up truck driver lost control while trying to corral his unrestrained Rottweiler. “Not long ago my dog survived being thrown from my vehicle in a pretty nasty car crash. It could have been avoided if I’d buckled him up with a safety harness in a car seat. I urge EVERYONE with pets to invest in safety harnesses and Lookouts. Use them for EVERY car ride, EVERY time…no matter how short the trip or where you’re driving!”

— Mariann McDonell, Northridge, CA

5 Reasons Your Little Dog Should Use a Lookout Car Seat and Safety Car Vest Harness

1. Distraction
   Little dogs can provide much-needed distraction from the pressures of daily life. However, you don’t want your pet distracting you when you’re behind the wheel. The results could be disastrous — for you, your pet, and other motorists.
2. Impact
   Pets without restraints are just like people without seatbelts: If you slam on the brakes or hit another car, they go flying and even the strongest person can’t hold back the amount of force generated, even at slow speeds.
3. Emergencies
   A dog that has been in an accident is likely to be in shock, confused, and injured. They may not take kindly to rescue personnel without provocation. You can minimize this danger by properly restraining your dog. They can also be frightened and run from the accident scene. If you’re injured you can’t run after them.
4. Control
   Even a well-trained dog can be distracted by a squirrel or cat. If your dog is properly tethered they can’t jump out the window or chase after another animal when you open your door.
5. Comfort
   Imagine standing blindfolded in the back of a moving truck. That’s what the average car trip is like for your dog, a series of unexpected starts, stops, and turns. You can increase your dog’s security and comfort by giving them a boost up to see out the window and providing comfortable restraints.

Dos and Don’ts…
Do use restraints that offer mobility
Some restraints only allow your dog to remain in a sitting position. That might be fine for a quick trip to the post office, but over a longer haul your dog should be able to sit and lie down. Lookouts come with soft Sherpa fabric that give them a soft bed for hours of commuting.

Do properly fit your dog with the correct size restraint
The padded Car VestHarness (#202215) has a flexible fit and a soft cloth lining. The harness slips over their head with elastic fit at the collar and only two adjustable clip buckles at the girth on the dogs’ back for their comfort. The D-Ring attaches easily to the Lookout clasp and later to their lead when you take them out of the car. There’s also a loop on the harness for seatbelt attachment when your Lookout isn’t available.

Do have an I.D. tag on your dog at all times when traveling
You never want them to get away from you, but if they do be sure your cell phone number and address appear on their I.D. tag.

Don’t put your dog in a crate or cage
In an accident a crate or cage will go flying through the air just like an unrestrained dog. If the crate itself is secured, your dog may hit against the interior walls with potentially lethal force.

Don’t let them hang their head out the window without eye protection
Although a dog may love to have the wind in their face, an animal can suffer eye damage and even vision loss from road debris and insects. We recommend Doggles Safety Eyewear for your little dog whenever you’re on the road. They’ll look forward to wearing them if they’re know they’re going for a ride with you!
G.W. Little offers 2 varieties and sizes of Lookouts to suit every little dog and car style.

CONSOLE LOOKOUTS

1. Regular Console Lookout is ideal if you prefer your little one next to you, (small pets up to 4 pounds). It enables them to ride between the front driver’s bucket seat and the passenger seat. It will boost the pet about 3 inches above the car console. The Console Lookout is secured to the car with straps that hold it to the latched door of your car’s console in front and hook to the seat belt anchors on the floor in back of the two front seats. Exterior measures: 8-1/2″ wide x 15-1/4″ deep x 6-1/4″ high.
2. Large Console Lookout is designed for SUV’s or large vehicles with a wide console, (pets up to 12 pounds). Attachment is similar and exterior measures: 12″ wide x 18″ deep x 8″ high.

• Your little dog is secured to the Console Lookout with a built-in safety strap and double claw hook to attach to the Car Vestharness.
• Comfortable foam form body construction.
• Washable, removable cover with faux lambs wool interior, pleather or quilted nylon exterior.

LOOKOUT PET CAR SEATS

1. Regular Lookouts are designed for dogs up to 18 lbs. Solid foam construction bed is designed to be secured across the back with your car’s safety belt, tested and proven to be the safest design for quick stops or accidents. The Lookout boosts your little dog up to see out the window while providing a soft cozy bed. The safety strap included attaches to any seat belt then to your dog’s Car Vestharness with a double claw hook. Exterior measures: 15″ wide x 18″ deep x 17″ high.
2. Large Lookouts are 6″ wider for dogs up to 25 lbs. Exterior measures: 21″ wide x 18″ deep x 17″ high.

• Lookouts Car Seats come with a pullout plastic drawer for toys, treats and leads.
• Optional personalization on the flap over drawer -10 letters maximum, additional charges apply.
• Removable and washable cover with faux lamb’s wool interior comes in pleather or quilted nylon.
• Lightweight foam construction for portability makes it great for a car safety seat then a bed in the home.
• Optional Lookout Treat Rack available with two covered bowls for treats and water on the go. Frame collapses flat for storage in drawer.